Me and the fam were on our way down to Falconwood Park for their Frosty Lights event, and we needed somewhere to eat. But where in the near-food-desert of Southern Bellevue can one find a drop-in type place that isn’t the new McDonalds on Capehart or driving all the way down to Plattsmouth for the coveted Taco Bell-KFC Combo and beyond? Well, let me tell you. Catfish Lake at the Lodge is tucked in just off the beaten path of the intersection of Highway 75 and Highway 34. Accessible from side streets on either side of that main interchange, this down-home-comfort-food-haven was surprisingly quick to get to but felt like we were genuinely an hour outside of Omaha – in the best way. We hadn’t been in since they relocated following the 2019 flood.

When we pulled up just before 6 o’clock, it was already hoppin’. The parking lot was darn near full, and inside we found a nearly all-senior crowd who was preparing to clear out. As they did, the place filled up with a steady stream of other young families, and couples and friend groups of all ages. They just kept piling in and I realized the place seemed a lot smaller from outside, but there was a whole separate dining room beyond the first one. I don’t know about the second one, but the one you walk into was covered wall to wall in taxidermy, and the girls thought it was a hoot! Look a deer – a duck – a fish! There were TV’s streaming sports abound and a good time was being had by all.

We didn’t order any adult beverages, but I will note that they appear to have a fully stocked bar – and not just your uncle’s country classics. Bottles of Tanqueray and Sapphire Gin sat on proud display next to Maker’s Mark and Johnny Walker. As for food, the wife and I both sprung for one of their staples: Southern Fried Catfish – “Crumbly cornmeal battered strips,” the menu says. I mean, the place is called Catfish Lake after all. We both got fries but I got coleslaw and she got a house salad. The girls went with the ol’ standby – chicken strips and fries.

The food came out way sooner than it had any right to, and the three ‘strips of catfish’ ended up being hefty, nearly-foot-long boneless fillets. They were just so good. A perfect coating of seasoned meal-based batter allowed for a nice crunch while letting the fish speak for itself. The tender white meat was hot and fresh but somehow the outside didn’t burn your fingers – heck yeah, I ate with my hands. It also struck me as being so light when I’ve had so much heavy, saturated fried fish over the years. The coleslaw was also nice and fresh. There was a nice, subtle celery seasoning, but it was a touch sweet.

The fries were also a standout star. For some reason, I was expecting a basic, frozen crinkle-cut fry, but that couldn’t be any further from reality. These were battered and very well-seasoned. I believe it was a garlic flavor that kept shining through. The tartar sauce was good, but I was looking for some heat besides the perfectly functional hot sauce that came on the table. Then I remembered: before settling on the catfish, I ogled a po’ boy that came with a ‘Homemade Cajun Aioli’, so I asked the waitress if I could have a side of the sauce to dip my catfish in, and she obliged. What a delicious idea! Exactly what you’d expect and an awesome pairing with the fried fish – great heat and great flavor.

While I devoured every one of those beautiful fries, I strategically left one catfish fillet and some coleslaw for the next day. And through the modern magic of our trusty air fryer, I am happy to report that I reheated the fish to a crispy golden brown and rolled it and the coleslaw up in a warmed flour tortilla with a little of my own super spicy ranch. Now, those are leftovers I would fistfight for.

Final thoughts: Catfish Lake at the Lodge cares about its food. It had all the appearance and charm of a small-town dive bar but was run like a proud culinary kitchen and bistro. While I went with the obvious choice in catfish this time, there are several cuts of beef calling my name, least of which is a monster 18 oz. “King Cut” of prime rib. Heavens to Murgatroyd! All that and it’s less than 10 minutes from our house! Thank you, Catfish Lake! We will be back!

Matt Hebert is an engineer and self-published author. His dopamine-fueled creative pursuits have spanned from chicken keeping, sand sculpture, acting, and public speaking, but writing is nearest and dearest to his heart. He lives in Bellevue with his wife and two daughters. You can find him on Instagram at @jerkofalltradeshebert or email him at matt.hebert.books@gmail.com

Opinions expressed by columnists in The Daily Record are not necessarily those of its management or staff, and do not constitute an endorsement or recommendation. Any errors or omissions should be called to our attention so that they may be corrected. Contact us at news@omahadailyrecord.com.