No series on Bellevue, Nebraska’s classic restaurants could be written without including Stella’s Bar and Grill. Seriously, I think its required in the city code or something. Stella’s has been a Bellevue landmark since 1936. It’s a legend for locals and earned both regional and national recognition. But when I stopped in on a cold Friday at lunch, I got a different vantage. When I stepped inside, the place was packed. There was not a single open table, so the guy that walked in behind me was invited to sit at the empty end of an otherwise occupied table and I was put at the end of the bar. The end of the bar, it turns out, that was packed with the empty cups and the waitresses’ coffees, and I’m telling you, I couldn’t have got a better spot. I was right in the thick of things, and I had a one-of-a-kind view of the otherwise obscured flattop grill operation.

The first thing I noticed as I got settled in was the nature of the clientele. The tables were filled with all manner of construction worker, city employees, active duty military personnel, and several regulars. How did I know they were regulars? Because the waitresses were calling them by name, asking for updates on family, and had their preferred drinks memorized. And all of these people clearly came to Stella’s for the good food, but also to be fed. That’s what this place is doing, and with great efficacy. They’re feeding folks and getting them out the door, past the line of new people waiting to get in. They just happen to be feeding them with arguably one of the best burgers in Nebraska. 

The second thing that struck me was the size of the flattop grill and surroundings. From everywhere else in the dining room, your view would have been blocked. But from my lowly perch on my bar stool, I had a direct view of the three-man operation cloistered behind a high counter. One guy manned a three-basket deep fryer, one guy stood and spread mayo and other condiments on buns and prepared plates, and the third guy packed every square inch of a tiny little flattop grill with hand formed patties. The grill is maybe two by four feet, max. What? And these three guys just stood there, grinding through the lunch rush in near silence while the four or so waitresses ran the front of the house. But what I can’t comprehend is how they maintained such a consistently high level of quality. 

For my order, I kept it simple with a bacon cheeseburger and fries. The biggest surprise to me was that the burger came in a paper boat and not the simple, signature napkin I remember from days of yore. No really, they used to bring you a heaping, deliciously greasy burger and serve it on a napkin placed right on the table. But like I said, this one came in a paper boat with the fries to match. The burgers at Stella’s are just so damn good. The circumference of the patty is not overwhelmed by the bun and toppings, and it's not pressed thin. It’s a thick, meaty patty. The flavor and texture of the tomato and onion were poppy and fresh. The brioche bun was soft and supple, and the overall assembly required both my mitts. The fries were soft, not-too-greasy, and delicious with just the right amount of salt and all those crispy little peely bits.

I came to Stella’s for a burger and fries, but what I found was a strong community with room for everyone, even if you’re crammed at the end of the bar. The wait staff were attentive but also reached over things to refill my cup like I was at their house. They asked a guy next to me to hand me the ketchup. They complained about the poor job the bar close staff did. Like the food, the experience and atmosphere was real, authentic, and just a little greasy. This is the place. It hits just like it did the last time you were there. You could take your parents. You could take your kids. And at 90 years old, its got staying power beyond compare. Stella’s isn’t just a Bellevue Classic, its thee Bellevue Classic. 

Matt Hebert is an engineer and self-published author. His dopamine-fueled creative pursuits have spanned from chicken keeping, sand sculpture, acting, and public speaking, but writing is nearest and dearest to his heart. He lives in Bellevue with his wife and two daughters. You can find him on Instagram at @jerkofalltradeshebert or email him at matt.hebert.books@gmail.com.